Ayasofya Hurrem Sultan Hamami Istanbul – A Spa Review By Punam Mohandas
The Ayasofya Hurrem Sultan Hamami is one of the most exclusive and luxurious hamamis in Istanbul, usually spoken of in reverential tones! Curious to see what the experience would be like, I booked myself an appointment for the Ab-i-Hayat, the most premium package that the Ayasofya offers. It includes the traditional bubble wash scrub, a full body clay mask, a body massage and face pack.
The hamami was designed in the 16th century (1556, to be precise) by Mimar Sinan, the chief Ottoman architect, who also designed the Kilic Ali Pasa Hamami, however, the styles couldn’t be more varied. The Ayasofya is the largest hamami built by Sinan and has two separate sections for men and women, constructed on the same axis as mirrors looking at each other. The entrances are completely separate and there is no danger of you bumping into any male – or vice versa – as you enter the hamami.
I step into a massive, marbled foyer, with a hexagonal shaped fountain in its centre, rising above which is a huge dome in the typical Ottoman architectural style. The height of the dome is 30-metres and its backlit by a blue light which is peculiarly restful. Stained glass faux windows on the uppermost level of the dome let in their own mellow light. Diwan style seating with huge, low, round brass tables are placed in each corner of the room where one is welcomed with traditional Turkish coffee or tea, while cylindrical shaped glass bulbs with purple lace tassels are hung at strategic points around the hall. On the ground and upper levels are latticed wooden doors that lead to various individual changing cubicles. The floor above that has the massage rooms.
I go up to my assigned changing cubicle in a burst of excitement. I can’t wait to get started. The room has a bench and enough space to keep your things; the key is on a waterproof wristband that you can wear while in the hamami and be assured of the safety of your belongings.
The foyer is known as the ‘cold’ room and is meant for relaxation. One heads next to a warmer room and then finally, to the hot hamam room. Every guest is assigned a dedicated natir or therapist (for want of a better word) who holds your hand and guides you every step of the way; it may be a form of sisterhood but more practically, helps you not to skid and slip on the wet marble flooring!
I enter a simply huge room done up in white marble and bathed in a warm golden light, with the typical dome that has dozens of little, covered skylights.
There is an enormous, raised hexagonal dais with an inlaid pattern in black and mustard marble in the centre of the room. To the sides are raised platforms with heated marble benches and marble basins. I’m guided to this and my therapist removes my robe and bades me sit while she pours hot water over me. After this she wears a loofah glove and scrubs me thoroughly from top to toe. She then applies a face and body pack made of Judas tree oil all over and I sit there for about ten minutes.
After this she washes the pack off, shampoos my hair and then guides me to the hexagonal dais where I lie on my back. She dips a long thin muslin cloth in soapy water, fluffs it out in the air and wrings the soap suds all over me. There is no experience quite like it; soaking in a bathtub of bubbles doesn’t even come close to describing the sensation! It’s like being covered in goose down that floats all over your body. She now proceeds to massage me with the soap lather. I then turn on to my stomach and the process is repeated on my back, with a hair rub as well. She then guides me to a smaller bathing area where once again I am sluiced in warm water.
After this I’m led back to the lobby where I lie back on one of the beds to relax. A traditional Ottoman juice which is a mix of eight spices and produced fresh daily is offered to me; this is to replenish the sweat and minerals lost during the hamam treatment. Accompanying this is a little tray with a couple of Turkish delight (locum) pieces. This is followed by a large fruit platter consisting of orange and sweet lime segments, apple slices, grapes and pomegranate. All around me I can see women relaxing similarly; this is a deeply restful experience and indeed, guests are encouraged to relax as long as they like.
Once I’m ready, I let my natir know and we head for the massage rooms upstairs. It’s time for the aromatherapy full body massage with Judas tree oil. She also gives me a brief face massage before applying a face mask.
The therapists all appear well trained, from what I observed. I did wish I had a different natir, as my attendant appeared quite preoccupied; I saw an attendant with very Asian features and another motherly Turkish lady, who seemed to be giving more thorough and leisurely bubble massages to their clients.
There is no doubt that the Ayasofya Hamami offers a more indulgent, even, sensuous and pampering hamam experience, comparable perhaps to none other in the city. However, be warned that it can take a long while in spite of the timing mentioned on the package; for instance, I arrived at 3.30pm for a 4pm appointment and was done only by 7pm! (This is irrespective of the time you choose to spend on relaxation.) My 4pm appointment only started at 4.15 despite arriving early and then I was left to my own devices in the hamami twice for long periods.
Apart from the traditional bathing ritual, the Ayasofya also offers massage treatments such as anti-stress, aromatherapy and so on. As mentioned, shampooing is part of the hamam ritual. Hair dryers, disposable thongs, body lotion, cotton buds and pads are provided. At the end of each session, guests are given a small ‘gift’ consisting of a tiny bottle of body lotion, an olive oil soap bar and the bath-glove that was used on you. If you’d like to purchase more soaps, shampoos and such-like, the Reception desk sells the products.
The Ayasofya Hurrem Sultan Hamami Istanbul has an enviable location! It is right across the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sofya museum, which means you can finish your sightseeing and then head for a blissful hamam experience. The tram stop is Sultan Ahmed. Purchase an Istanbul card that will allow you access on the city’s bus, tram, metro and ferry services.
Ayasofya Hurrem Sultan Hamami Istanbul
Tel: +90 212 5173535
Fax: +90 212 5173536
E-mail: [email protected]
Website: www.ayasofyahamami.com
Price: Massage prices depend on type of treatment chosen. The Asl-i-Hamam (basic hamam ritual) is priced at 55 euros while the 110-minutes Ab-i-Hayat package is priced at 185 euros. Credit cards accepted. Advance reservation is advisable.
Punam Mohandas asserts her right to be identified as the author of this work. Any views or opinions expressed in this review is that of the author.